Saturday, 12 January 2008

The Colours Of BOLIVIA...

...BOLIVIA...12 hour bus from PUNO PERU-crossing the border was real friendly and at that point we knew we were coming to a real special place-bus ride was along the shores of Lake Titicaca for 4 hours and rest was on Altiplano ,desert and through Andes with many Llamas and Alpaca and this is what every traveller in the world dreams of doing -at one point we had to cross Lake Titicaca by boat and the bus on a barge-due to 3500 plus meter altitide feeling sick is a norm until you get acclamitize but it's worth it.Very very poor country but the people and the scenery are just awesome-seeing LA PAZ high from Altiplano for the first time in the valley with houses packed on hillside is one sight you will never forget-BOLIVIA is real South America with majority of people being indigenous Indians and they are one beautiful people...
...Anyone reading this if you have couple of weeks to spare go to BOLIVIA you will love it and you will go home re-freshed-re-vitilized-re-juvinated and ready to face what ever...
... no words will do justice to describe what we saw in BOLIVIA so we are not going to use words like super,spectacular etc will just say where we went to...and we only spent 8 days in BOLIVIA -it's one place we know we are going to come back for sure with more time in very near future...


...southern Bolivian desert-spent 3 days travelling with these peole - it was like United Nation gathering -reads BOLIVIA... B :UK, O:Spain-Rebecca, L:Ecuador-Juan, I:Italy-Antonio , V: UK, I: Elisa-Venezuela, A: 3degrees from Surendranagar!...and Ilda our cook and her husband Nilfar from Bolivia of course...

...crossing Lake Titicaca in Bolivia...
...world's largest- UYUNI Salt Flat-overnight rain turned it in to a mirror-when dry it's pure white -13,000 sq km ...
...salt for commercial use being harvested... 20,000 tons per year-18,000 tons for human consumption and rest for livestock...
...the disappearing horizon... 40,000 years ago this was a lake then dried up living salt concentrations-the salt deposits are also the results of the minerals leached from the mountains and deposited here...
...jeep glides along the salt flats-where is the horizon?...
...will we see a better place than this on our journey?-don't think so!...
...us 3 against a non-existing horizon...
...bare foot on the mirrored salt flata...
...lunch being prepared by our cook Ilda-they were wife and husband partnership-Nilfar the driver and Ilda our cook-we travelled with gas cooker and the lot...lunch table and seats made from cutting of salt blocks -there are hotels and houses around here made from these blocks too...
...taken from top of our jeep...
...salt flats...
...early morning in the desert-our very basic hostel in no man's land-our cook cooked for us 3 times a day and we ate in the open...good food too....
...cutting through Altiplano and approaching Chile and Argy borders...
... COLOURS OF BOLOVIA...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-BLUE LAGOON-due to volcanic activities...
COLOURS OF BOLVIA-CREAM LAGOON- pink flamingos at 4200m-we were above 4200m all the time and we were breathless most times...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-GREEN LAGOON...
COLOURS OF BOLIVIA...Ilda preparing lunch in the desert as storm clouds gathers-saw mighty thunder and lightning show...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-stone tree weathered by rain and wind...hundreds of naturally sculptured stones everywhere...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-RED LAGOON-with pink flamingos...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-volcanic activity-bubbling muds of different colours and smoking earth-there are many volcanoes in Bolivia and some active too...we were in the heart of volcanoe land...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-early morning sun-rise in the volcanoe land...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-
...early morning natural spring bath...
...smoking Volcanoes...Cream lagoon full of poisonous Lead hence no birds around...we are standing in Bolivia-right of us is Chile-left of us is Argentina-behind the Volcanoe is the beginning of the great Atacama Desert of Chile-we turned back from here to go back to La Paz....
...these are DALI Mountains of many colours....
...Bolivian desert...
...RED lagoon...
...old lava flow that cooled and weathered away with time...
...COLOURS OF BOLIVIA-desert graveyard for steam engines from by-gone days and there were so many...





















Floating Islands Of Lake Titicaca...

…departing on a boat to see the fairy-tale floating islands on Lake Titicaca(LT)-as the local band plays on…

…just 5km from Puno the unique floating island of UROS people-they began their unusual floating existence centuries ago in an effort to escape brutal and aggressive Colla and Incas…canoe shaped boats made from Totora Reeds.There is nothing like found anywhere else in the world.Authentic Ayamara Indians who wants nothing to do with outside world still live on floating islands but to find them one has to navigate through maze of narrow channels on LT…
…several hundred people live on this island and there are many more islands like this on LT…now days they are communities with schools and so on…islands are built from using the buoyant TOTORA REEDS that grows abundantly in the shallows of LT-they are also edible-canoe-shaped boats are also made from it-islands are constructed from many layers of Totora Reeds which are constantly replenished from the top as they rot from the bottom, so the ground is always soft and springy…in this picture the local UROS shows how the islands are built using Totora Reeds…

…local UROS mixing with the REAL Indians…

…P trying to show how to cook real INDIAN food to the Uros woman…Uros woman turning away disgusted thinking you my girl who live on diet of 5C’s (choclate,crisps,cheese,cookies candies) wouldn’t survive a day here-specially you being a vegee too! So show some RESPECT girl!...
…on floating island of UROS…it’s amazing that they actually floats and weird sensation walking on it as they are very spongy- LT in part is very deep with abundant in fish-the waters of LT are pristine clear…


...we've met so many people from different walks of life on our travel -this Brzilian travelling with his wife can make any thing out of a piece of paper including over 600 animals and birds-he kept V happy for hours-the hobby started when his 8 year old years ago asked him to make him something on her birthday ...







Sunday, 6 January 2008

Puno on shores of Lake Titicaca

...Arequipa to Puno 8 hour bus -decided to take local bus for expeience and it was mixing with genuine decent folks because we had bus ticket number 1,2 and 3 and so did 3 others-driver the other 3 and security wanted us to catch the next bus but before we could argue our case there was a uproar in the bus and the whole bus took up our cause in having a right go at the driver and the other 3 as to how dare they treat 3 guests visiting our country in such manners-P and I just looked at each other and almost had tears in our eyes-the other 3 caught the next bus and all we could say to our fellow pessangers was muchas gratias...it kind of re-kindles some faith in fellow human beings and there are some decent folks out there...the scenery outside was Altipano of Peru all the way -the bus going up and down the Andes with loads of Llamas and Alpacas-a real scene that we see on tv on South American travel and the Peruvian music coming through the bus loud speakers made the journey really memorable for more than one reason...
…main square with huge church at one end…
…looking down on Puno with Lake Titicaca(LT) in distant…LT is world’s highest navigable lake and South America’s largest-over 170km in length and 60km in breadth…LT is divided equally in to Peru and Bolivia…one can cross in to Bolivia by sailing in LT…

…the real TOMB RAIDERS in the altipano…the cylindrical house called CHULLPAS is where the nobilities of Colla people were once buried with all their possession like gold and silver for their journey in to the next world…some are as high as 14m…nothing remains in any of the many CHULLPAS around here as they have been robbed by TOMB RAIDERS long time ago…
…Puno sits on shores of Lake Titicaca-rather drab old town difficult to spend even one day here but we had to stay here and acclamitize!...

Sillustani area…50 odd km from Puno in to Altipano of Peru –many ruins are found here from Colla people who once dominated this area-they were warriors and southeastern arm of INCAS-this picture shows some kind of SUN worshipping but one particular person hasn’t got a clue! I mean has she never played pass the parcel!

…visiting the local Indian’s house-the AYAMARA Indian…we were shown how they live and had some home cooked food too…

...Oi sister! you've stolen my coat!..
...at last I found my long lost cousin through Facebook!..

...Oi ! said the white one...how come you are standing on two legs!...

...excuse me! said the imposter... can I join the Union now!..or failing that where is the nearest choclate shop!...

Oi! said the white one...get down on four legs!...













Saturday, 5 January 2008

Colours Of Our Hostel In Arequipa...

...La Casa De Melgar Hostal... with three lovely courtyards...infact most buildings seems to have huge courtyards in Arequipa...
...leading to more patios and courtyard and beautiful garden...
...our room was one behind that blue storage room...
...our hostel 50m on the right...
...huge room with a massive ensuite and all for 18 quid a nite...and 2 minutes from city center...
...looking over breakfast courtyard from our room...

colca canyon




Pritti holding COCA leaves bought for 50pence in Arequipa as we prepare to climb(in a car) up to 5000m ie over 17000ft to see Colca Del Canyon and various other things.Chewing COCA leaves relieves symptoms of Altitude Sickness which can be fatal if not observed properly(if symptoms of altitude sickness persists for 24 hours then one has to descend very quickly to less than 2300m.)This bunch of leaves will produce 0.00021g of COKE-yes the real thing!
P prepares COCA leaves for chewing-up to 10 leaves are chewed and left in the side of the mouth and juices swallowed-taste is rather bitter-a specially prepared alkaloid stone like object is also chewed at the same time which draws out the drugs from the leaves and it gives instant buzz-I chewed more than 20 leaves and oh boy! I was a gonner! It has one side effect hours latter and that is it gives you a mother of all hang-overs-I mean our heads were ready to EXPLODE! and so our days of using hard drug lasted less than 24 hours .Also it suppresses hunger for up to 2 days at a time and you can stay awake for up to 48 hours and yes that happened to us too! COCA break at work is an institution here.It is legal to posses COCA leaves here but illegal to make paste from it as it is from the paste that COKE-yes the real thing!-is made after a lengthy chemical process usually in the jungles of Colombia. Everyone chews COCA leaves here ,long distant lorry drivers and bus drivers all seems to have huge gob-stopper like ball of COCA leaves in their mouth.COCA leaves COCA tea are at every breakfast, lunch and dinner tables once you go over 2500m.In Peru ,Bolivia and Ecuador Altitude Sickness is a real health hazard for tourist and those who take it lightly have to always cut their holidays short due to symptoms-up to 2000m it’s not a problem for most people, then every 1000m you climb you have to acclimatize for at least 48 to 72 hours by staying in one place.We acclimatized in Lima,Nazca,Arequipa and La Paz and we still suffered from mild symptoms of Altitude Sickness through out stay specially loss of appetite and sleep and slight nagging headache-in La Paz we really had to walk slowly due to it’s mountain location and we were always shattered after walking just 5 to 10 minutes and climbing even just 10 steps in our hotel made me feel like 70 year old-honest!



Alpacas and Llamas in Canon Del Colca near Arequipa



Mountains are worshipped in many part of this continent-today was a cloudy day otherwise from here one can see up to 7 snow-capped volcano peaks of around 6500m and we were standing at 4900m-people come here to worship theses mountains and built these towers for good luck for example before getting married ,starting a new business etc…it is rumored that the big square tower on the right of this picture was built by BILL GATES just before he started MICROSOFT!

…not sure whether it’s my good looks or my chram but I am always a hit with the local girls…this before we enter a town called Chivay for a night high in the Andes.

…early morning in Chivay –this view from our bedroom window-those snowy mountains are called MISMY and it here that the mighty AMAZON river is born and goes on for 6500km in to the Atlantic…

…on the road to see Cannon Del Colca…
…this area known as Cruz Del Condor and this is the beginning of Cannon Del Colca(Canyons Of Colca)-it is 100km long with snow capped volcanoes on each side and it’s depth ranges from 1000m to 3000m and is the world’s deepest canyon at 3191m ie twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in US! –a large family of Andean Condors nests here by the rocky outcrop and are seen sometime gliding close by on thermal air currents that rises from the canyons, swooping low over onlookers heads-Condors failed to show up on this day as the whole canyon was shrouded in mist and clouds!...

…locals selling all sorts to the tourist…we had nice local lunch while waiting for the Condors to show up-steamed corn on the cob,vegge rice etc…


…finally we saw 2 Condors flying above us few km from Cruz Del Condor as we prepared to head back to Arequipa and it was a magical sight-Condors can live up to 70 years!...


Arequipa

...we left NAZCA on New Years Eve early morning -8 hour bus ride through snow-capped Andes-magnificient scenery all the way-arrived AREQUIPA about 3 pm-the second biggest city after LIMA and it is known as white city as most of the buildings are made from white rocks which are found locally...this really is one cool city sitting 2500m ie 10,000 feet up from sea level and P and I were in trouble same day with altitude sickness-the air is real thin here and you have to do everything really slowly for first 48 hours-you go out of breath real quickly...and in few days we would have to go even higher at 4000m ie over 15,000 feet...anyway our body slowly got use to the thin air in Arequipa...New Years Eve was just like anywhere else in the world celebrated with plenty of fireworks,coca leaves and pisco...the city is surrounded by snow capped Andes and one mountain in particular called Misty as no one has ever seen it as it´s always surrounded by mountain fog...real weird!...we spent 3 days here getting use to the thin air and it really is a wonderful town high up in the Andes...
...Plaza De Armas-main square- on New Years Day...
...everyone whose got a four wheel is a self-employed taxi driver in Peru and they are everywhere in your face -tiny little cars they are too...but have to say they are very polite and don´t overcharge...well not too much anyway...
...there are so many beautiful churches in Peru and some of them are very grand...

...La Catedral...grandest church in every sense-it´s one of the only 100 churches in the world that are allowed to fly a Vetican flag on the top...don´t ask me why...
...police and security forces are in full force around all tourist sites and that makes you feel real safe...those sacrificial frozen mummies-teen age- that were found on top of some mountains around here are in the museum here and we see those mountains on our day trip from here...didn´t fancy seeing those teenage mummies...



World Famous Nazca Lines...

...we stayed in LIMA only two night then left for Nazca on 30th -we will spend 3 more days in LIMA latter on ...bus ride of 8 hours form LIMA to NAZCA...day buses are recommended in Peru as outlaws often hold up night buses then loot ,rape and even killed tourist ...things have improved a lot though in Peru and Bolivia over the last 5 years...it´s just pure desert and dry mountains and sea on the other side all the way from LIMA to NAZCA and absolute massive sand dunes just like Sahara...
... 4 seater plane just for us 3 for a bird`s eye view of the NAZCA LINES...
..feeling great flying over Nazca Lines(NL)...I was seating in the co-pilot seat and infact made a co-pilot by aviation laws with all of 30 seconds worth of landing instruction incase the pilot had a heart attack or something...as if... I mean why not just jump out just like we did over New Zealand......pre Inca culture known as Nazcas built this round sort of irrigation system all around the NL...
...Nazca town and NL are just 20km from here...
...NL are spread over 500 sq km desert land...NL remains one of the worlds great archaeological mysteries consists of 800 straight line that go on for miles upon miles 300 geometric figures and 70 spectacular animal and plant drawings it can only be really appreciated from the air...the views apart from being spoilt by them lines were super-the mountains were like choclate colour with jagged edges and feel as though you can scoop it up with a large spoon ! P tried it but couldn't reach!
...a MONKEY with extragavantly curled tail...
...a CONDOR with 130m wingspan...
...beautiful HUMMINGBIRD...
...180m long LIZARD...the tail is so long that the Panamerican highway cuts right across the tail...they could have re-routed the highway slightly as this is the UNESCO World Heritage Site...this highway begins in Canada and finishes at Punta Arenas in Chile-20,000km long and some people do this whole highway travelling just for the hell of it -hey P! got an idea about our next trip-how about driving...........................
...another bird of some kind...there are also giant spiders,owl-headed people,fish and so on...
...question is who built this and why...no one yet has come up with reasonable explanation-it is believed to be have been built by Nazca Culture of 900BC but why? there are many theories of course...
1...astronomical calender developed for agricultural purpose
2...lines were walkways linking after life or sites of ceremonial significance
3...lines were runways for alien landings
...and many more and some real loony ones...
... my personal theory is they were made by people who were pissed on sucking on too many coca leaves at a stag do...how else can you explain this pointless lines and almost straight too and drawings looks as though made by a 7 year old after a night out on fizzy drinks...
...what´s your theory?..I know keep scratching your head and you are sure to come up with one...